Glamping is more like it.
Marfa, Texas is one of the more remote and inspiring places I’ve ever been. To say it’s out of the way is accurate. 100% accurate. And, I’m so glad I made the journey. It’s a place to disconnect. In fact, staying connected is more of a challenge than relaxing into its slow groove. It’s a town of less than 2,000 but a hotbed for creatives. Every body knows every body and if you need to get in touch with someone but don’t have their number, you can call the Get Go and they can probably track ’em down for you. You can spend days reading about Donald Judd and his Chinati Foundation. You can get high end custom boots at Cobra Rock Boot Company that feel like a perfectly fitted foot sculptures. KRTS, Marfa Public Radio, has to be the envy of the rest of the country’s public radio. Do yourself a favor and start streaming it full-time. I spent two hours in the Marfa Book Company— the coolest book store in the country, seriously. Kindles be damned. The Marfa Lights, mysterious beams of light that dance and glow over an empty swath of land, bring in a community of skeptics and hopefuls each night. They were out in full force the night I was there– the lights and the hopefuls– and our little band of Marfa Lights Brothers had a ball drinking beers and swapping conspiracy theories. The McDonald Observatory is just two small towns over and the drive is one of Texas’ beauties. Meander out just before sunset and then stick around for the observatory’s Star Party. The stars blanket the sky and a dozen high power telescopes give you views of Saturn and the Moon like you’ve never seen. I’m not even into astronomy and I stayed until midnight.
Wanting to step outside of my normal path, I chose not to stay at the comfortable, air conditioned Hotel Paisano— where
Liz Taylor, James Dean, and Rock Hudson stayed while filing Giant. Instead, I chose a safari tent at El Cosmico just down the road. This is camping for rock stars. My safari tent was tricked out with a chandelier, 400 thread count sheets on a super comfortable bed, a radio so I could binge on KRTS, and my own bedside lamp. Falling alseep to the sound of wind and nothing else was a luxury all its own. If you stay at El Cosmico, you need to embrace the full experience. You’ll have to cross a dirt patch of field to use the ladies, shower, or brush your teeth. It’s communal but totally private and there’s no wait. But, have you ever showered outside? Once you do, you’ll never want to go back inside.
Also, if your body aches from all that driving to get to Marfa, call Suzi for a massage at 512 567 1964. If you can’t find her, call the Get Go.